GILGIT— World-record mountaineer Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja and several members of his international expedition team have died after a massive avalanche struck Broad Peak, his guiding agency Elite Expeditions confirmed on Saturday.
The avalanche hit the team on Thursday at around 6,600 meters while they were ascending the 8,047-meter peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram range.
BREAKING: Renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja has officially been declared dead following the devastating avalanche on Broad Peak (8,047 m) in Pakistan’s Karakoram. Further details to follow.
— Everest Today (@EverestToday) August 1, 2026
High-Altitude Tragedy and Recovery Operations
Contact with the 10-member team — which included climbers from Nepal, Pakistan, the United States, Oman, China, and the UK — was lost on Thursday morning. Tracking data showed the force of the avalanche carried them hundreds of meters down the steep mountainside.
A joint search and rescue operation involving the Pakistan Army, local high-altitude porters, and specialised mountaineering teams resumed on Saturday after harsh weather had temporarily halted efforts.
- Identified Victims: Remains recovered and flown to hospital facilities include an American woman, an Omani woman, and a Nepali man, according to the Gilgit-Baltistan government.
- Search Continuity: Ground teams at base camp continue searching lower slopes despite dangerous high-altitude conditions.
Expedition Breakdown & Fatal Avalanche Sequence
| Expedition Attribute | Details & Specifications |
|---|---|
| Target Peak | Broad Peak (8,047m / 26,400 ft) — World’s 12th highest summit |
| Team Composition | 10 climbers (Purja, 5 Nepalis, 1 Pakistani, 1 Omani, 1 American, 1 Chinese) |
| Incident Altitude | Approximately 6,600 meters during ascent |
| Primary Cause | Sudden, high-volume avalanche triggering multi-hundred-meter fall |
A Titan of Modern Mountaineering
Purja, a 43-year-old former British Royal Marines Special Boat Squadron and Gurkha Brigade operative, made history in 2019 by summiting all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in just six months and six days.
At the time of the tragedy, he was attempting to become the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen.
“The physical journey of all the deceased climbers has been interrupted, but the history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring.”
— Balendra Shah, Prime Minister of Nepal
Before attempting Broad Peak, the team had successfully climbed Gasherbrum II (G2) in difficult weather. Pakistani climber Fida Ali, who had been with Purja earlier, narrowly escaped the disaster after turning back early to help an exhausted team member descend.
